FG Perilous Dark Bestiary 1

First set of figures painted.

Ballista II, a large construct with a powerful ballista. Pinned by Richard as the arm would just be a liability simply glued on. Dark silver, dry brushed bright rung fang, and then toned down with black and brown washes that also helped key in the wooden parts of the ballista.

Vapour Snakes. Arctic grey, dry brushed with white and then highlighted with rune fang silver again – I was rummaging around the paint collection and found a lot of pots of rune fang silver so will be using it extensively !

Lockdown Foamboard Fun (Addendum)

Sometimes you can get carried away…

A huge hostelry I imagined.

Balconies, and bay windows, lots of opportunities for shooting.

And there arch is 3″ high, so mounted figures or coaches could get through.

This is over 20 years old, so I guess its about time I pulled my finger out and painted it !

Lockdown Foamboard Fun (4)

Final bits done yesterday:

Windows highlighted with Arctic Grey…tyo remind players they are there, and their models can be shot through them !

Washes, and Granite (Light) used to highlight and make a mess !

And the ground floor is the good old dolls’ house paper.

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial.

best to crack on with the lead mountain next.

Lockdown Foamboard Fun (3)

Now the carcass is clad in balsa wood, time for some paint.

In particular, textured masonry paint. Makes the foam board and all else feel like concrete which is great for transport.

Importantly, it also means that the foam is covered up, as when you come to spray it, the sprays will melt the foam if it is unprotected. So make sure all the edges are covered with paint before spraying.

It also covers up a host of imperfections and nooks and crannies.

Like so.

So after a couple of hours drying time for some…

BLACK

Paint the underside of the card base, so that it does not warp.

Spray paint the rest…BLACK…

Now for some block painting.

That’s as far as the paint drying got me today (and light permitting).

Tomorrow, the final touches, of highlights, and some paving.

Lockdown Foamboard Fun (2)

So, the foambaord carcass of the building is made, now for some good hard planking.

Balsa wood for the exterior beams, a bit thicker than I normally use, but given the lock down all I have.

Use the general architecture to guide you as to where the beams would go.

I also shape them slightly by shaving off random bits along the edges to make it look a bit more natural.

Now for the interior. The wooden planks for the first and second floors.

I often measure out the lengths and then snap them off of the main length of balsa so In end up with frayed wooden pieces which look much more natural than sawn off pieces.

I also try and ensure I have some shorter floorboards to make it look more natural (top right).

Again I shave off some off the straight edges which will be picked up when I paint the edifice.

Next up, watching paint dry !

Wow bet you’re excited.

NB: This is being done real time, so it does take a few days to do…

Lock down Foamboard fun (1)

Several years ago, someone asked for a guide on the scenery I have produced, so here it is.

These posts will be somewhat wordy.

Things you will need:-

  • Newspaper to protect your work surface
  • Cutting board – either the green self healing ones or thin hardboard
  • Sharp craft knife
  • Steel ruler
  • General purpose glue
  • Sturdy Artists Card (A3)
  • Foamboard (3mm, 5mm, 10mm)
  • Thin card (eg cereal packets)
  • Balsa wood, flat, round or otherwise
  • Masonry paint
  • Large brushes
  • Kitchen roll
  • And above all else, you will need some paper to sketch out your architectural designs.

    Firstly, foamboard comes in different sizes. I use the 5mm thick sheets that can be bought in art and hobby shops in A2 sheets. Its Foamboard sandwiched between paper sheets on both sides, and you’ll need the sharp blades of a craft knife to slice them to ensure there is no “drag” and the cuts are clean.

    You’ll need to plan out your ruined building beforehand.

    As I have previously commented, use the real world designs of medieval buildings as a starting point. Start simple.

    How big ?

    Most black and white half timbered buildings were built around “bays” which were 12-15′ wide – enough room for a cart drawn by two oxen.

    For 28mm figures, this equates to about internal 3″ wide which is also, usefully large enough for the average clumsy gamer to get in and place a figure:

    In this case, the ground floor is actually 4″ wide.

    How high ?

    About 2″ high for each storey. This equates to about 10′ high which is a little tall for medieval buildings, but for practical purposes it works.

    At this point, you must remember when designing your building to add in an extra 5mm for the walls to cope with the foam board’s thickness !

    The Base

    At the same time, you must also plan the width of the artists card board base you will be using.

    So, you need the dimensions as such:-

  • internal 3″
  • thickness of 2 walls of 5mm
  • external surround of 20-25mm.
  • I’ve listed the external surround so you can add paving, rubble and so on, but to allow figures to move between individual buildings.

    The Plans & Markings

    Overhangs – jettied buildings were common in the medieval period, I generally make my jetties for the upper floors an inch, which allows average sized figures have cover.

    You can see where I have marked out the dimensions on the card base, and the Foamboard wall pieces.

    Use the sharp craft knife to carve out the Foamboard, use the steel ruler to guide you for the straight edges – plastic and wooden rulers will get carved up easily.

    Note also, I have rounded the edges of the card base – use 30 degree cuts with sharp scissors – I suggest using dressmaking scissors as they are very robust. This means you have no sharp edges on card which inevitably become frayed and broken.

    In the sample above, I have cut out windows and doors (about 1″ wide) and used the old Mordheim plastic pieces. These are now OOP, but other manufacturers are available.

    This should give you the carcass of the building on a wide base to amke ti stable and robust.

    Next up, I’ll go through the detailing.

    Lockdown MDF (1)

    So I’;ve been finishing off some Arcan Obelisks by Blotz that I got before, during and after Xmas, obviously designed for one of the Sell Sword scenarios in the Frostgrave Folio.

    This is the simple MDF carcass, and plain version. Easy to put together, though there is a knack with getting the sides on – get the top lug in first and then the lower one is easy.

    These are the ones completed, painted with textured masonry paint, and then coloured.

    Nice and simple, and cheap.

    These are the more arcane ones, painted in metallic colours, I gave them a brief wash to pick out the details. I now have enough for two tables for the same scenario.

    The last three Chronochounds, painted with Foundry North American flesh, GW Druchii violet wash.